Monday, November 21, 2016

The $5 Bill


A thunderstorm is bearing down on our old farmhouse on Iowa Highway 7. The sky has turned black, and my family is near the broken window. Mom is looking for a $5 bill that has mysteriously disappeared. My dad is the subject of her anger, which matches the fury of the approaching storm.

“I don’t know where it is, Gam!”

He exclaims it almost as if he’s having a good time, mixing genuine innocence with a trickster’s twinkling eye. Dad probably knows that he deserves to get soaked, but is attempting to avoid being struck by her lightning.

“Pat! A $5 bill may not mean much to you, but it’s sure worth a hell of a lot to me!”

Thunder cracks loudly, and warm rain pulses in sheets through the window. Pastel bath towels from the nearby bathroom are tossed underneath the window’s sill, and my mom’s determined hands mop up the pooling rainwater on the wooden floor.

**********

The mystery of the $5 bill remains. I’m fairly certain that if I investigated the fight some thirty years later with its witnesses as my subjects, it would be a cold case with few leads.

Today I live in a different old farmhouse, but with my own husband on a quiet gravel road in Wisconsin. The windows keep out the rain, but sections of plaster occasionally crash to the floor off of the upstairs ceilings, the subject of a leaky roof and a century’s worth of service.

Our disagreements are less about money, and more about the meaning of our lives. Why are we on this farm? And what is the purpose of our existence here?

So now I’m back on a farm, and I’m thinking … what happened to that $5 bill?

***********

My husband and I are pig farmers. We’ve gone the way of organic, and have started a business selling pork directly to customers at a local farmers’ market, and to our friends in Minneapolis.

Each month I take three grown pigs to the local butcher shop, and I pay them $1,000. I come home with coolers full of meat.

And each month I call the local feed mill, and they deliver a truck full of organic grain, and I pay them $700.

And each week, we go to the Viroqua farmers’ market. We cook up samples, and with the delicious smell of sausage and meat wafting through the air, we come home with about $500 each time.

It’s true that we do have a bit of money left over to cover a few things, like our truck’s gas and repairs, pig fencing, and pasture seed. But nothing for our time.

It makes you start to wonder, how did my parents even get that $5 bill, with a farm income and no town jobs?

************

We moved to an area a few years ago that reminds me of my childhood. There are small farms with struggling operations. Tiny towns are sort of hanging on. Vacant buildings line Main Streets, with scattered bars and restaurants sprinkled in between, captained by men who have been at the helm for decades. They look as tired as their surroundings.

I work from home, with a job that pays me a decent wage. I use my mind through a computer screen and a mobile phone, living on government contracts, helping agencies to implement transportation plans and projects.

My husband uses his mind for a paycheck as well, swimming through paperwork and appointments on behalf of a government contractor. He helps people with disabilities find jobs in these small towns, and the “Department of Give People Jobs” foots the bill.

Our paychecks go toward our farm mortgage and food, fixing up the farmhouse and outbuildings, dinners out, repairs for our cars, and taxes and utilities. And then of course we trade cash for pork and pork for cash, and that all evens out in the end.

************

At the farmers’ market one day, my mother-in-law is here for a visit. She wanders around the market, cheerfully bounding about the festive, bountiful atmosphere. She sees us selling pork to a woman and her children, and by chance later walks past her, out of hearing distance from our booth.

“Those pork chops were way too expensive!”

Her children are the subjects of her message, but she doesn’t know that my mother-in-law is a subject as well. My mother-in-law passes the message back to us.

Weeks later, I go into a local grocery store to buy a rat trap (!), and I take the scenic route past the meat coolers. I see that pork chops are $1.89/lb.

Ours are $8.50/lb.

*************

My husband goes to work, and I clean up the breakfast dishes. The computer screen holds a promise of keeping me company, if I can find something to watch besides the news. Oh please God, help me to find something that’s not the news!

Thank you internet Gods. You have brought me: The Farm Crisis, a documentary by Iowa Public Television.

It is suddenly the 1980s, the decade of the missing $5 bill.

Newfound global trade in the 1970s creates an era of unbridled agricultural optimism … China wants corn, and Russia wants pork … Iowa farmers respond by becoming more efficient, farming from fencerow to fencerow, building hog warehouses … Business is booming, and loans fly out the bank doors.

Then trade comes to a screeching halt in the 1980s … Prices for corn and pork fall below the cost of production … Banks call farmers who aren’t paying their loans, and people lose their farms … and by happenstance I see an advertisement in a grocery store window.

It’s three decades ago, but you wouldn’t know it when it came to the price of pork chops.

$1.89/lb.

************

On the telephone, I ask my mom later that week if she has seen the documentary, and she has not. I know she will watch it, with her inexplicable and never ending appetite for learning. So I email her the link. She replies back with the subject line “Too Little, Too Late,” and says:

I guess if you were in the middle of it, you didn't realize how bad it was. I remember having a very convicted belief that we should hunker down, get town jobs, and save what we had, just wait it out. Of course, my say was nothing. But that's ok, the rest of the story's what happened!

It’s all coming back to me, hearing my parents’ stories over the years.

My dad was raising pigs. He had just used a small inheritance to buy an acreage on Highway 7, around 1980. The bank gave him a loan to buy pigs, and the price of pigs dropped, for good. Stories of the sheriff coming with a livestock trailer to haul pigs away swirl through my mind, and I think I know where that $5 bill went.

My dad probably spent it on beer. Wouldn’t you?

*************

American farming reads like the opening line from Charles Dickens’ novel A Tale of Two Cities:

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, we were all going direct to Heaven, we were all going direct the other way …

Yesterday I went to a small gathering in our local community center. A retired librarian leads a group singalong every other Saturday. We sing songs from the 1960s, and traditional folk and gospel songs. She has surrounded us with well-organized shelves of donated books. After we finished singing, she pushed a razor thin, brightly yellow, homemade book into my hands. On the cover it says, “Ten Poems of Richland County, by Randall Durst.”

An awkward moment of internal thought ensues, while I attempt to recall her husband’s name who is standing next to her, “Randy must be Randall, and his last name must be Durst!”

“Oh, I didn’t know you were a poet, Randy!”

He demurs with a toothy smile on his face, cocking his head lower. I know him instead as an organic dairy man with thirty cows in a century-old barn, who sells milk to Organic Valley.

Later at home, I first read silently, and then aloud to my husband a poem, with the title handwritten as “Fortress”:

My farm is my fortress.
Encircled by economic enemies
I smile with all my teeth
And sling another shovel-full of shit.
I shore and patch up,
I wear things out and I do without,
And still I cherish my right
To taunt them from the fence line.

Monday, June 15, 2015

Next Steps

Running a farm as a beginner is a unique experience, and the learning curve is steep. Like the hills on our farm, it can be a tiring climb. There are new skills to learn, like keeping the cows fed in winter, sequestering broody hens, and shearing sheep with giant monster scissors.


You learn a few sobering things along the way, like how you can occasionally contribute to the death of an extremely cute farm animal. Like the day I found a baby chick, drowned in a water pan (there are waterers that preclude this particular form of demise - yikes). Fortunately, more of them live than die, so you soon remember that you are doing more good than harm. An example is the two baby lambs that we bottle fed after their mom died 3 days after their birth. Without our care, they wouldn't have survived.


Another thing we have learned is that the finances of a farm are challenging. Sometimes after crunching the numbers, I have found that it is possible to make $1.13 an hour raising pigs. Yikes again. Fortunately we are in a farm class that is showing us how to push that number up. For the first time in our relationship, we are diligent record keepers - every receipt gets recorded. And we are starting to think about the niche we can fill in the local food world. How can we ask for a fair price from customers, while at the same time giving them an experience like no other?


In the first post I wrote last September, I mentioned interest in the idea of a community farm. Under this model, customers pay an annual lump sum for products delivered throughout the year (much like a CSA, or Community Supported Agriculture). Customers also contribute their time annually, usually in the form of a work day. Patty Wright and Michael Racette from Spring Hill Community Farm in west central Wisconsin are pioneers of this model, and Aaron and I had the chance to sit down with them this past winter to learn more.


The big takeaway from our meeting was that for Patty and Mike, the food they raise has become secondary to the community their farm has created. They raise vegetables, and those vegetables are delivered to the Twin Cities twice a week by customers who drive to the farm annually, chip in a few hours of labor, share a potluck lunch, and fill their trunks with bags of food for fellow city dwellers. The work day is augmented by a few meetings every year with a core group, where Patty and Mike make operating and financial decisions with a handful of members. I am very excited about this model for many reasons. There are times when I need some extra socializing on the farm (how many days has it been since I left the premises?!). And we hear consistently from our family and friends, that they so appreciate sampling the beauty and intrigue of country life.


To that end, we plan to launch a community farm website later this year, with our first year of operation being 2016. In exchange for an annual payment (somewhere in the range of $500 to $1,000), new members will receive some of the best raised animal products in the Upper Midwest: Big Willy's pork, Thanksgiving turkeys, gourmet chicken, pasture raised eggs, and grass fed beef. Members will make one trip a year to our farm in rural Yuba, Wisconsin, spend time with us and our brood, and go home with the satisfaction of knowing exactly how healthy and humanely their food is raised. 


In the meantime, we will be selling our products this year only by the item. This is a great way to sample how our food tastes. We are currently offering eggs, and will soon be selling pork and chicken (both broiler and gourmet meat). If all goes as planned, we will have turkey, lamb, and colorful Shetland wool by the end of the year. 

The adventure, the fun, and the hard work continues, and we cannot wait to share the delicious results.  If you would like more information or have any questions, shoot us a message, we would love to hear from you. For future updates, enter your e-mail address in the upper right hand corner. 

Until next time, do whatever it takes to stay cool (mud pits included)!










Tuesday, September 16, 2014

It's Official ... We Love the Farm

Six months ago, when Aaron Lopez and I moved to our farm in rural Hillsboro, Wisconsin, we considered it a grand experiment. We would leave Minneapolis and begin to live off the land, raising and harvesting our own food from 80 acres of beautiful hills, valleys, and streams in the Driftless Area. Shaun left his job at the City of Minneapolis and Aaron his at Sporcle Live Trivia, and we set off to this ...


The next six months were an epic journey, with laughter, tears, beauty, and anxiety. We brought cows, pigs, turkeys, chickens, and sheep to our farm. We hand dug an enormous garden space, and grew tomatoes, potatoes, greens, onions, corn, beans, and much more. We cleaned up piles of trash, restored rooms in our 1900-era farmhouse, battled a jaw-dropping wasp infestation, cleared brush along fence lines, and replaced roofs on outbuildings. We had visitors from near and far, including neighbors, family, and friends (featuring eager, young assistants).


Being on a farm was my dream, after growing up on and near farms as a child and for a short time in my mid-20's. Living in the country was a big step for Aaron, who had always lived in small towns or cities.  We decided to use flexibility and patience to see how things went.  About a month ago, Aaron said to me, unsolicited, "Shaun, I love the farm." That's pretty much all it takes to make it official.  Now we love the farm. This includes our adopted city dog, Dexter, who is out chasing hawks (in strong defense of our chickens) as I write this post.


Loving a farm is a process, and in order to deepen our understanding of what makes a farm work, we have decided to create a farm plan. In November, we will begin a Journey Person course with the Land Stewardship Project, which gives farmers the tools they need to gain skills in communication, farm production, marketing, and finance. I will also be applying for a grant from the Environmental Quality Incentives Program, in order to help with some improvements I anticipate we will need to make in the coming years.


As we prepare to write a farm plan, I've been thinking about what the guiding principles of our farm may be. Principles that speak to us are ...
  • A high degree of environmental stewardship of the land, air, and water.
  • A supportive community of diverse customers and farmers who make decisions collectively.
  • Fulfilling lives for the animals and humans who live on and visit our farm.
  • Healthy food that nourishes our bodies.
  • A sustainable way of operating that honors those who came before us, and improves our home for future generations of animals and people.

One model that appears to be a likely fit is a community farm, where customers take an active role in the farm through financial support and member participation. Spring Hill Community Farm in Prairie Farm, Wisconsin is a potential model for our farm. At Spring Hill, some customers (including my friend Cindy Harper) participate in a core group, which guides decision making on the farm. I was a member of Spring Hill for two years while I lived in Minneapolis. I hope to learn more from Patty & Mike (the owners) over the coming months.


Finally, you may be wondering ... what will our farm produce?  I have a great passion for animals.  Pigs have a slight edge on others for my adoration, but I care deeply about all farm animals.  Some potential products might be eggs, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, wool, and beef.  Currently we have 3 female pigs who are being bred with 1 male pig named Willy, so we are hoping to offer pork next year. We're thinking about calling this product Big Willy's Pork (yes, he and Dexter, the dog, get along quite well) ...



In reality, the grand experiment I referred to in the beginning of this post is just underway. We have so much yet to experience, and to learn.  And the great news is this - we want the experiment to continue! If you would like to be part of this journey, please enter your email address and contact me on the upper right hand corner of this website. Google blogger will keep you posted on new blog entries, and we will let you know about opportunities to get involved in our developing farm.

Until next time, cheers to the farm!